By Dr Katherine Armour, Dermatologist and Founder of Bespoke Skin Technology
Choosing sunscreen should feel straightforward. Yet, with different formulas, unfamiliar ingredient names and news of sunscreen recalls, it is understandable to feel unsure about what belongs in your daily routine.
My advice is to keep sun protection a priority while understanding what you are applying and how to use it properly. Knowing the difference between chemical and physical sunscreens is a helpful place to start.
What is a chemical sunscreen?
Chemical sunscreens use UV filters that absorb ultraviolet radiation and convert it into a small amount of heat, which is released from the skin.
These formulas often blend easily and leave little visible residue. However, their texture and finish depend on the entire formulation, rather than the UV filters alone.
The word “chemical” can sound concerning, but it does not mean a sunscreen is harmful. Both mineral and chemical ingredients are chemicals in scientific terms. The useful distinction is which UV filters the formula contains.
What is a physical sunscreen?
Physical sunscreens, also called mineral sunscreens, contain zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, or both as their mineral UV filters.
You may have heard that physical sunscreens reflect UV radiation while chemical sunscreens absorb it. This explanation is incomplete: mineral filters primarily absorb UV radiation, while also reflecting some of it.
Both types can provide effective sun protection. What matters is the performance of the finished formula and how it is used.
Some sunscreens combine mineral and chemical filters. These are often described as hybrid sunscreens.
Which type suits sensitive skin?
If your skin is sensitive, a mineral sunscreen may be worth considering. Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide filters are often well tolerated, although no formula is guaranteed to suit everyone.
Mineral sunscreens can leave a visible white cast, and a tinted option may offer a more suitable finish for some skin tones.
The rest of the ingredient list matters, too. Fragrance or another ingredient may contribute to irritation, regardless of whether the sunscreen is chemical or mineral. Try a small amount on an area of skin before broader use, and speak with your pharmacist or dermatologist if you experience a reaction.
There is no need to force a formula into your routine if it consistently feels uncomfortable. Finding something your skin tolerates makes regular application much more manageable.
What should you look for on the label?
For outdoor sun protection, look for SPF50 or SPF50+, broad-spectrum and water-resistant sunscreen. Broad-spectrum means the formula filters both UVA and UVB radiation. Choose a primary sunscreen: a product whose main purpose is sun protection.
Therapeutic sunscreens regulated by the TGA must display an AUST number on the label. You can use this number to check the product’s entry in the Australian Register of Therapeutic Goods and search for recall information.
If you are concerned about a recall, check the TGA’s current information for the specific product and affected batches, then follow its instructions. Reports about particular products do not establish that an entire sunscreen category is ineffective.
Application matters, whichever type you choose
Follow the directions on your sunscreen’s label. Australian guidance recommends applying generously to clean, dry skin 20 minutes before going outdoors, including when using a mineral sunscreen.
For an average adult, allow approximately one teaspoon for the face, neck and ears, and around seven teaspoons for a full-body application. Reapply every two hours when outdoors, and immediately after swimming, sweating or towel-drying.
No sunscreen provides complete protection. When the UV Index is 3 or above, combine sunscreen with protective clothing, a broad-brimmed hat, sunglasses and shade.
My approach to skincare has always been to make the science easier to understand and the routine easier to maintain. Sun protection deserves that same simplicity: understand your options, choose a suitable formula and give it a consistent place in your day.