Vitamin C (also known as ascorbic acid) has fast become one of the most sought after skincare ingredients, well known for its antioxidant protection and brightening effects. As consumers, we are often led to believe that Vitamin C is the golden ticket to cure all our skin woes (aside from coconut oil, of course). This isn’t necessarily the case.
In particular, a question we have been getting in our DM’s is “Why isn’t my pigmentation improving with the use of a Vitamin C?”
Here is our take on what could be occurring and some key things to look out for when selecting products for your skin.
Not all Vitamin C’s are made equal
As with anything, not all Vitamin C’s are created equal. Components like the type and concentration of Vitamin C, other ingredients in the product, and even the kind of bottle or dispenser make or break the benefits.
It is important to make note of whether the bottle your Vitamin C is housed in protects the skincare product from light. Most science backed cosmeceutical ranges, will package their Vitamin C serums in coloured/opaque pump bottles to protect it from light/air exposure. When Vitamin C is exposed to light it becomes unstable, the consequences include irritation, inflammation and acne. All of these can cause post inflammatory pigmentation, leaving you worse off than when you started. If you have any of these skin ailments, and are using a vitamin C serum, it might be time to rethink your regime.
As well as the overall % of Vitamin C in products, the ingredients your Vitamin C is combined with also alter its effectiveness. Studies have shown that a combination of ferulic acid and vitamin E with vitamin C can help to stabilise the compound and increase vitamin C efficacy and absorption.
Other factors to consider when selecting a product with Vitamin C for hyperpigmentation
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pH levels — The effectiveness of Vitamin C can also be influenced by the formulation’s pH level. A lower pH means better absorption, but this can also increase the likelihood of skin irritation. Before you choose your product, always consider whether it has a pH that balances effectiveness with gentleness.
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Skin type — Different skin types may react differently to various forms of Vitamin C for hyperpigmentation. For example, L-ascorbic acid, although potent, might be too harsh for sensitive skin, whereas Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate could be a gentler alternative. Understanding your skin type and its inherent needs is a step in the right direction to ensure optimal, long-term brightening results without irritation or sensitising your complexion.
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Product layering — To optimise the benefits of Vitamin C while preventing irritation, pairing this active with Hyaluronic acid helps to lock in moisture. This complements the brightening effects of Vitamin C without interfering with its function. While it ultimately depends on your skin type and how well you tolerate this ingredient, you should ideally apply Vitamin C during the day as it can boost the efficacy of your sunscreen, providing added protection against free radical damage from UV rays.
It could actually be causing inflammation that leads to even more pigmentation
Vitamin C is also notorious for causing irritation in sensitive skin types, particularly when mixed in your skincare routine with other active ingredients such as AHA’s and retinoids. Alpha hydroxy acids and beta hydroxy acids, like glycolic acid and salicylic acid, can lower the pH of Vitamin C, destabilising it and causing irritation. This can lead to a flare in conditions such as periorificial dermatitis, again, leaving you with post-inflammatory pigmentation. If you choose to use both ingredients, apply them at different times or wait at least 30 minutes between applications to allow the skin’s pH to normalize.
It’s generally recommended to use Vitamin C in the morning and retinol at night to avoid sensitivity and maximise its benefits. Additionally, you should always avoid harsh and abrasive acne treatments like Benzoyl Peroxide — this ingredient can oxidise Vitamin C and render it ineffective. To avoid adverse reactions and ensure the best skin-lightening results, separate their applications by using them at different times of the day or on alternate days.
There are very effective ingredients that reduce pigmentation, even better than Vitamin C.
Bespoke’s founding Dermatologist, Dr Katherine Armour, loves Astaxanthin.
“I like to think of Astaxanthin as the younger, far sexier cousin of Vitamin C. For so long, we have fixated on Vitamin C (ascorbic acid and its derivatives) as being the be all and end all in terms of antioxidants. Don’t get me wrong, Vitamin C is a fabulous brightening and collagen-stimulating ingredient. But, it is difficult to work with, and is notoriously unstable in preparation. As a dermatologist, it is one of the most frequent causes of periorificial dermatitis that I see.
Astaxanthin is at least 65 times more potent an antioxidant than Vitamin C. Free radicals be gone, and is a powerhouse at combating wrinkles, unwanted pigmentation and sun damage. When topically applied, brighter, more luminous skin is a given.”
As well as astaxanthin, Vitamin A (retinaldehyde,retinol), Bakuchiol, Niacinamide, Ferulic acid, resveratrol and Camellia Sinensis (green tea) are just as effective as Vitamin C but far better tolerated and don’t have any of the limited side effects we mentioned earlier.
You can find these powerhouse ingredients combined in Dream Cream, Luminosity and Complete Night Shield.
SHOP BESPOKE SKIN TECHNOLOGY’S ASTAXANTHIN-RICH RANGE OF PRODUCTS TODAY
Astaxanthin is a must when it comes to lightening dark spots, decreasing the appearance of pigmentation and enhancing your skin’s natural regeneration process to promote a more radiant, even complexion. If you’re ready to embrace the transformative power of this active, Bespoke Skin Technology’s range will help you see a visible improvement in skin brightness and resilience.
From our Luminosity Revive & Refine serum to our anti-ageing collection and pregnancy-safe skincare range, each product is formulated to harness the full potential of astaxanthin, combined with other skin-loving ingredients that ensure comprehensive care for all skin types.
Unsure of your skin type or whether astaxanthin for hyperpigmentation is right for you? We recommend taking our quick skincare quiz for tailored product recommendations.