Last week, I was fortunate enough to spend four days in Paris at IMCAS—the International Master Course on Aging Science.
IMCAS brings together dermatologists, aesthetic nurses, plastic surgeons and cosmetic surgeons from all over the world. And it is a lot! This year, 22,000 delegates filled four floors of lecture theatres and three floors of exhibits covering everything from skincare and injectables to energy-based devices and plastic surgical instruments.
There was so much to take in, but my favourite sessions focused on cosmeceutical skincare—surprise, surprise—melasma, exosomes, artificial intelligence in dermatology and epigenetics.
Here are my highlights.
Neurocosmetics: where neuroscience meets skincare
One of the topics I found most fascinating was neurocosmetics: the cutting-edge intersection between neuroscience and skincare.
Certain skincare ingredients can activate nerve receptors within the skin. In doing so, they may influence skin cell function and nerve signals, with potential benefits including reduced inflammation, muscle relaxation—yes please!—collagen and elastin production, and improved skin barrier function.
These emerging ingredients aim to support both skin health and emotional wellbeing. It is such an interesting area of skincare science, so stay tuned for more on neurocosmetics from us at Bespoke.
Melasma: we need to talk about heat
One of the biggest take-home messages from the melasma sessions was the role heat can play in driving inflammation and contributing to melasma.
We already know that daily protection from UVA, UVB and visible light is incredibly important. However, if melasma is an issue for you, minimising optional heat exposure—including saunas, hot yoga and certain skin procedures—may also be helpful.
Melasma is a chronic condition that tends to relapse and remit, so managing it requires a considered and ongoing approach.
Safety was another important part of the discussion. Intravenous glutathione is used to treat melasma in some countries where the condition is highly prevalent. However, it is banned in many places because of its poor safety profile. The international speakers agreed that the risks outweigh the potential benefits when treating melasma.
New skincare ingredients such as 2-mercaptonicotinoyl glycine, also known as Melasyl, may provide another useful addition to our melasma armamentarium.
Exosomes: exciting, but are we there yet?
Exosomes are creating plenty of buzz in the aesthetic world and are discussed at almost every aesthetic medicine meeting.
They are small packets, or vesicles, that carry proteins, lipids and nucleic acids between cells. They play an important role in communication throughout the body and are already being studied in areas including cancer, regenerative medicine and immunology.
Within dermatology, researchers are investigating their potential use in hair loss, wound healing and skin rejuvenation. However, exosomes are still in the early stages of development for skin-related applications.
Many experts at IMCAS felt that we need more evidence before they can be recommended for widespread clinical use. Possible complications include unwanted nodules, which may be very difficult to treat and may not resolve.
Exosome injections remain investigational, and their commercial medical use is unapproved in many countries. I think there is enormous potential here, but their sourcing, manufacturing and safety still need to be refined and supported by more systematic scientific evidence.
In other words: exciting, but not something we should rush into.
Meeting fellow female skincare founders
A personal highlight of IMCAS was meeting two inspirational dermatologists and fellow female skincare founders: Dr Kathy Fields, of Proactiv and Rodan + Fields, and Dr Shereene Idriss.
It was fascinating to hear about their challenges, successes and experiences as both doctors and entrepreneurs. Creating a skincare brand certainly comes with its highs and lows, so I loved hearing from women who have navigated their own journeys within the industry.
And, of course, a little time in Paris
Paris is completely my favourite city to mooch around in.
I was lucky enough to live—and kind of work—at the American Hospital of Paris during my final year as a medical student, so simply wandering around and taking it all in is “the best” as far as I’m concerned.
I had two half-days to explore and managed to clock around 25,000 steps each time. I found a dog park near my hotel, visited the flagship Sézane store, practised my very rusty French and ate my mandatory share of pain au chocolat and croissants.
I was also amazed by how many people were running through central Paris at lunchtime. When I lived there more than 20 years ago, people would call out and ask what I was doing during my daily runs. They thought I was crazy. Now, it is completely de rigueur!
The SkinCeuticals team also hosted a fabulous cocktail party beneath Pont Alexandre III, where I sipped a very clever “Ferulic Fizz” in homage to CE Ferulic and danced to the coolest band ever.
And no visit to Paris would be complete without spending time in a French pharmacy. The French loooove skincare, and it seems to take up at least 75% of almost every pharmacy. Heaven, as far as I’m concerned.
I particularly enjoyed seeing the full Bioderma range and its dedication to the ecobiology of the skin. Let’s hope we see more of it here in Australia soon.
IMCAS was a very full but inspiring four days of emerging science, thoughtful discussion and plenty of new ideas. I am looking forward to sharing more of what I learned—particularly about neurocosmetics—with you soon.
C’est tout de moi pour l’instant!
Frequently asked questions
What is IMCAS Paris?
IMCAS is the International Master Course on Aging Science. It brings together dermatologists, aesthetic nurses, plastic surgeons and cosmetic surgeons from around the world to discuss developments in skincare, injectables, medical devices and surgery.
What are neurocosmetics?
Neurocosmetics sit at the intersection of neuroscience and skincare. Certain ingredients may activate nerve receptors in the skin and influence functions such as inflammation, collagen and elastin production, and skin barrier support.
Can heat make melasma worse?
Heat can drive inflammation that may contribute to melasma. Along with protecting the skin from UVA, UVB and visible light, people with melasma may benefit from limiting optional heat exposure such as saunas and hot yoga.
What are exosomes in skincare?
Exosomes are small vesicles that carry proteins, lipids and nucleic acids between cells. They are being studied for possible uses in dermatology, including hair loss, wound healing and skin rejuvenation.
Are exosome injections approved?
Exosome injections remain investigational, and their commercial medical use is unapproved in many countries. More evidence is needed regarding their safety, sourcing, manufacturing and effectiveness before they can be widely recommended in clinical dermatology.